Plavac, the most widely planted red grape in Croatia, is said to be a close genetic relative of Zinfandel. This quirky and fantastic example, however, tastes much more like a Cru Beaujolais (made from the light Gamay grape) than a big, extracted California Zin. Teeming with wild strawberry and sweet red raspberry fruit, this medium-bodied red gets a surprise jolt from firm, brawny tannins that provide good grip and give the wine a taut structural backbone.